Marlborough should take a Champagne approach to blending

Sauvignon Blanc producers in Marlborough should ditch the idea of highlighting individual terroirs and instead take a “Champagne approach to blending”, according to American wine critic Matt Kramer.

UK chat show host Graham Norton takes part in a blending session for his popular New Zealand Sauvignon Blanc brand

Speaking at the second International Sauvignon Blanc Celebration in Marlborough last week, Kramer took the controversial standpoint that a terroir driven approach may not be the best way forward to the New Zealand region.

“The Burgundians have been blending Pinot Noir for 500 years but we’ve all accepted the culture as the truth that it’s best to show off site specifics. We live in a world where the Burgundian vision of greatness and quality is the Holy Grail, but we need to understand what makes Sauvignon Blanc unique, desirable and essential.

Matt Kramer believes the future for Marlborough Sauvignon lies in blending from different sites

“You always hear about the importance of terroir, not about blending. We’ve been saturated with the Burgundian vision of terroir, but is it the right one for New Zealand, or should you be taking a Champagne approach of blending?” Kramer questioned during his speech.

He went on to state that “the best Champagnes in the world” are made from a blend of grapes from different vineyards.

“Some vineyards are complete in themselves, and there are some great single vineyard Champagnes and grower Champagnes, but they’re idiosyncratic. The most complete Champagnes are often made from blends, which is something to consider.

“If you identify what each of your vineyards give you the answer may lie in the blend rather than the Burgundian model, which is the church I worship in. We’re all immersed in this Burgundian vision of beauty, but it may not be the answer for elevating Sauvignon Blanc to its highest and best expressions.

“No wine can command a premium without validation. You need to find a rap star who loves Sauvignon Blanc – get Beyoncé over to Marlborough. The validators have changed. Critics are on their way out – I’m just a old dinosaur,” he said.

At the inaugural Sauvignon Blanc celebration in 2016, Kramer said that Marlborough Sauvignon producers were suffering from a “midlife crisis”.