The rosé revolution


“There’s a widespread culture built around beer that is geared towards men. Beer is not just something you drink, but as part of certain events (at a BBQ or football games). Rosé has only blossomed in the past few years, and is mostly celebrated by and marketed to women.

We believe it has a similar appeal to beer that is just starting to be understood. The wine is versatile, refreshing, and sipped chilled. The time is ripe for rosé to find its place in the world at large, and the possibilities are infinite.” While the brosé hashtag gained momentary momentum thanks to the likes of Justin Bieber (last year the popstar was reported to have visited Wolffer Estate Vineyards in New York where he “drank half a bottle of rosé”), the rosé category is yet to find a more resolute way of engaging male consumers.

Perhaps rocker Jon Bon Jovi will be able to offer a helping hand? The Bon Jovi frontman recently released a Languedoc rosé with winemaker Gerard Bertrand called Diving into Hampton Water after the smart coastal hotspot in upstate New York. Released in the US in March at $25 per bottle, the wine is a blend of Grenache, Cinsault and Mourvèdre. According to Bertrand, who hosts an annual jazz festival at his Château l’Hospitalet estate in Narbonne, the rosé is “fresh and lively with distinctive minerality”.

Commercially, the colour of a rosé remains hugely persuasive. It’s by no means a definitive style indicator, but current trends mean that it can leverage shelf appeal. But producers who chase pale for the sake of colour alone should be wary, not only of missing out on the benefits that a degree of skin contact can bring, but of focusing on colour alone at the expense of aromatics. “People will continue to buy rosé if the colour is fine, but the aromatics also have to be there,” notes Crosnier. “Some producers pay too much attention to colour alone.”

Throughout the category, quality has exponentially grown, alongside the rise of paler-hued styles from Provence. There are serious examples to be found, but rosé is a category that has never sought to take itself too seriously.

For Crosnier, the links between rosé and lifestyle are the category’s greatest attribute, adding further that snobbery towards rosé has lessened over the past five years thanks to a universal lift in quality across the category. “Rosé is not considered a serious wine to age and to drink with the right food at a specific moment – the power of rosé is that you can drink it at any time with everybody and everywhere,” he says; and therein lies its charm.

One Response to “The rosé revolution”

  1. “Invariably light and easy drinking” I keep finding it distressing that all pink wine is lumped together. We make a rosé that is pretty full bodied. It is barrel fermented and sur lees. A two year production cycle. Put it in a black glass and people will accept it as a white Burgundy.
    There is a lot of pink crap out there, anytime a category booms there’s a lowering of average quality. Although Rosé is a broad group that has been mostly pretty lame. I used to be involved in making sweet, pink crap.
    To put all rosé wines in a group is as silly as putting all colors in a group. Oh! Wait! That’s bigotry!
    There is a lot more to ROSÉ, maybe you should do a story on those making the exceptions to pink, overpriced plonk?
    Paul Vandenberg
    Proud producer of dry, sur lees, barrel aged rosé wines since 1999.
    Paradisos del Sol
    Home of Vineyard del Sol, the World’s first Zero Pesticide Vineyard

Leave a Reply to Paul Vandenberg Cancel reply

Your email address will not be published. Required fields are marked *

Please note that comments are subject to our posting guidelines in accordance with the Defamation Act 2013. Posts containing swear words, discrimination, offensive language and libellous or defamatory comments will not be approved.

We encourage debate in the comments section and always welcome feedback, but if you spot something you don't think is right, we ask that you leave an accurate email address so we can get back to you if we need to.

Subscribe to our newsletters

The Global Riesling Masters 2019

Deadline : 20th December 2019

The Global Pinot Noir Masters 2020

Deadline : 31st January 2020

Click to view more

The Global Grenache Masters 2019

View Results

Champagne Masters 2019

View Results

Click to view more

Subscribe today to get each issue of The Drinks Business as soon as it's published, plus all the latest breaking news and access to our library of back issues.

Subscribe Today!

Subscribe to our daily newsletter

Stay up-to-date with the latest news about the international spirits industry every weekday lunchtime (GMT)