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Argentina in pictures: the Pampas

It was with trepidation that I boarded this eight-seater turbo prop belonging to Dario Werthein, owner of Bodegas Riglos, in Buenos Aires for a short flight to Werthein’s estancia (ranch) in the Pampas. I needn’t have worried; she soared the skies like a dream, offering a postcard perfect view of the Andes above the clouds. Werthein is one of four shareholders in the Los W Group, which has assets in telecoms, oil, gas, textiles, property and financial services.

Touching down in the Pampas, we headed straight for Dario’s ranch for a tasting of the Riglos range. Founded in 2002, the estate spans 72 hectares in Tupungato and the Uco Valley in Mendoza. Production is small, with only 80,000 cases produced each year, including a Malbec, a Cabernet Sauvignon, red blend Gran Corte and a charming Cabernet Franc, of which only 6,000 bottles are produced annually. Photo credit: Colin Hampden-White.

After the tasting, we were given a tour of the estancia by Dario’s sister Judí, a Miami-based artist who has had her work displayed at the Tate Modern.

En route, I couldn’t resist snapping this blue-eyed gaucho, who took time out of his cattle herding duties to show us Dario’s fleet of antique carriages.

One of the more bizarre moments of the trip involved watching cows being artificially inseminated. They didn’t look like they enjoyed it much, but with a 98% hit rate, Dario favours it for his cattle over the “traditional” method.

Wondering around the ranch, we came across these adorable llamas trying their best to blend in with the trees.

Sunset over the Andes

Before heading back inside for dinner, we were treated to one of the most beautiful sunsets I have ever witnessed.

No trip to Argentina is complete without seeing a polo match. Back in BA, we headed to the “Cathedral of Polo” to see La Dolfina (led by Adolfo Cambiaso) take on La Aguada Las Monjitas (in orange) in the Argentina Open Polo Championship. While the match was gripping it was a one-horse race, with La Dolfina storming to a decisive victory.

The Jacaranda trees were in full bloom in Buenos Aires, filling the city with an explosion of lilac blossom.

One of the many quirks of Buenos Aires is the trend for dog walking en masse, with this cool customer walking no less than nine pooches at a time.

With a few hours to spare before flying home, we headed to the cemetery in Recoleta where Evita is buried. Many of the tombs boast beautiful stained glass depictions of religious figures.

In addition to Eva Peron, also laid to rest in the cemetery are Argentinian presidents, Nobel Prize winners, the founder of the Argentine navy and a granddaughter of Napoleon.

And finally… having soaked up the sun, Sophie Jump, James Lawrence (centre) and Richard Hemming cool off in the shade at one of Recoleta’s many cafés.

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