9th May, 2013 by Andy Young
Eric Asimov recommends a Spanish white with “fruit flavours that resounded long after the sip was gone”, while Jon Bonné picks out a wine that is “a reminder of Zin’s pure pleasures”.
Writing in the New York Times, Asimov heads a tasting panel which reviews Spanish Albariño. He wrote: Back in the dark ages of the early 1980s, the notion of seeking out a Spanish white would never have occurred to most people. Spain, like Italy, was known for reds. Sherry might have come to mind, an indicator of the barren selection.
“Yet Spain is a trove of modern whites now, made from distinctive Spanish grapes like Godello, Verdejo, Treixadura and, of course, Albariño.
He added: “If the first three grapes haven’t yet gained traction in the United States, Albariño has become as much a brand name for Spanish whites as Pinot Grigio has for Italian.”
Meanwhile in the San Francisco Chronicle, Bonné wrote that “these are wonderful, if precarious, times for Zinfandel.”
He added: “The grape is being taken with a new level of seriousness nowadays, given a boost because its noble history – Tribidrag! – is now evident, but more particularly because a proud roster of Californians has decided that if the grape isn’t reclaimed from the Big Flavour partisans, the opportunity to put it back into serious discussion will be lost.
“The best of the 2011s are lovely – aromatic, brightly flavoured wines reminiscent of how Zinfandel was made in the days before it became a pawn in the culture wars. If it was a struggle to ripen fruit, and wrangle acidity, this year was a reminder that when grown to reasonable ripeness, Zin can show more than ample amounts of both.”
Click through the following pages to find out more about the wines recommended by these and other writers in the US press over the last week.