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Saturday 19 April 2014

If that's interesting, how about these?

Italy’s 10 leading fine white wines

7th February, 2013 by Rupert Millar

6. Miani Colli Orientali del Friuli Tocai Friulano Buri

Miani copyGrape variety: Friulano

Region: Friuli-Venezia-Giulia

Classification: Colli Orientali del Friuli DOC

Average price per bottle: £36

Back to the north-east for this wine and a wine which drove Galloni to rapture. He gave the 2009 95 points, picking out its “kaleidoscopic fabric of finely-knit honeyed apricots, jasmine and crushed rocks,” as well as its “supremely harmonious finish”.

He describes winemaker Enzio Pontoni as being “on another planet” and in the best years his wines “have no peers in Italy”.

Friulano is other wise known as Sauvignon Vert and, as with several grapes, some Hungarian origins have been claimed, perhaps with Furmint, hence the “Tocai” appendage, but this is disputed.

The grape does, however, share many characteristics, particularly the honeyed, waxy flavours that develop with a little age.

It is one of the most widely planted varieties in the region although the better known Pinot Grigio, mass produced but perennially popular, has stolen a lot of the limelight.

8 Responses to “Italy’s 10 leading fine white wines”

  1. Raffaele Santoro says:

    bla bla bla.

  2. Vino in Love says:

    That list seems a little bit odd to me. Don’t forget about Verdicchio (some of the highest rated Italian white wines are produced with Verdicchio) , Cortese (Cortese is the grape for the world-famous Gavi) and Falanghina.
    Timorasso and Buriano are not really that common..

  3. James says:

    Won’t get that 3 minutes back. What a terrible and uninformative piece.

  4. Mila Dorosh says:

    Gaja’s Cabernet is “Darmagi!” – Giovanni Gaja’s comment on planting the vineyards with cab.

  5. Riccardo Margheri says:

    Of course, I do not pretend to know everything, but tasting hundreds of different Italian vine varietes during my work for the wine guides I collaborate with, I have never tasted a “Buriano”. If here it says that it is one of the main Italian whites, I should know about that… Nor I find any info on such topic on my books about autoctone varieties, nor on the web… If it really exist, and it is not a mistake of the article (many of its choices could be discussed anyway, as it always happens, as the SB and not the Ribolla for Gravner, or the Nova Domus and not the PG selection Vorberg for Terlano), may I get further infos please?
    Kind regards
    Riccardo Margheri

    • Rupert Millar says:

      Riccardo,
      The list is an attempt to highlight at least some of Italy’s leading fine white wines. It may perhaps have made more sense to just pick out producers that are particularly focused on white wines – but the point is to show the most expensive, which would generally imply some sort of appreciation in price and interested following of some description. Where a particular producer makes other wines (such as Terlano and Gravner’s other wines as you picked out), I have tried to make reference to them.

      Buriano is not a major variety, many Italian varieties are in no way ‘major’, the list of Italian grapes in the intro was just to show that of all the merchants I talked to, the suggestions they gave to join this list (which were extensive) encompassed every conceivable variety, big and small, that Italy has.

      I agree that the list is not perfect and open to discussion. Indeed, I hope it does provoke discussion as Italy produces some excellent white wines and I think they need greater exposure and appreciation. As you can see from the list many are incredibly well priced with regards to their quality.

      Rupert

  6. Riccardo Margheri says:

    Looks like Buriano was an ancient name used around XVI-XVII century to indicate some Tuscanian white variety. I am not able to find my Francesco Redi’s “Bacco in Toscana” copy in this moment, where the term is mentioned. But trust me, it is not used nowadays…

    • Roberto Bellini says:

      Buriano grape is used in Montecarlo area, close to Lucca. Fattoria Michi produce a 100% Buriano.
      Cheers

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