Italy’s 10 leading fine white wines7th February, 2013 by Rupert Millar
10. Azienda Agricola Zidarich, Vitovska
Grape variety: Vitovska
Classification: Carso DOC
Average price per bottle: £22
Berry Green states that some of the more interesting Italian whites hail from the Slovenian/Croatian border, or even across it, though Slovenes and Croats would be bound to argue that the Italian border was pushed a little too far east in the last century and these “Italian” wines are in fact no such thing.
This wine though displays all the hallmarks of this Adriatic cultural intermingling, produced in (what is now) Italy using a Slovenian grape that is also planted in the neighbouring region of Kras.
Vitovska is thought to be a crossing between the definitely Italian Prosecco Tondo and the rather more Balkan Malvasia. It is quite “meaty” for a white grape, commonly described as having herb, prune and cherry characters as well as the more common citrus, apple and floral (jasmine) notes of a white variety.
Run by Benjamin Zidarich, the winery only produces some 10,00 bottles of Vitovska annually.
The wine is fermented on its skins in open vats and given a good dose of pigeage every day.
It is then aged in medium to large barrels of Slovenian oak for two years before being bottled without filtration.
Antonio Galloni of the Wine Advocate gave the 2009 93 points and called it a “generous, fleshy vintage” and recommended drinking it up until 2019.