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Monday 20 October 2014

Napa Sauvignon takes a new stylistic direction

1st October, 2012 by Catherine Seda Bugue - This article is over multiple pages: 1 2 3 4 5 6 7 8

As Napa Valley Sauvignon Blanc evolves towards a more balanced and less overtly oaky style a tasting panel picks out the best examples from 2011.

The US is having a love affair with Pinot Grigio and Moscato, and these wines have each taken a turn at dethroning Sauvignon Blanc from its second, then third place ranking behind Chardonnay in volume sales of white wines.

Not so in Napa Valley, where Sauvignon Blanc remains the second most planted and popular white wine.

There were 6,972 acres of Chardonnay in 2011, followed by Sauvignon Blanc’s 2,632 acres. No other white grape comes anywhere close to these plantings.

As in other regions, Napa’s Sauvignon Blanc takes well to different soils and microclimates. Grown in warmer areas, there can be ripe tropical fruit flavours, and the wines show their citrus zing when grown in cooler spots like Carneros.

Either way, the wines have high aromatics, especially when compared to Chardonnay. In the cellar, there are numerous procedures which can influence the final style, and Sauvignon Blanc takes well to oak – whether barrel fermentation or maturation.

It wasn’t always so sunny for Napa Valley Sauvignon Blanc. As Sauvignon Blanc winemaker, Kristin Belair of Honig Vineyard, explains, “Up through the early 1980s, Sauvignon Blanc was typically grown on a ‘California sprawl’ trellising and the fruit was heavily shaded.

Continuing, she says, “Sauvignon Blanc that is heavily shaded produces wines that tend to be more on the vegetal (bell pepper, green bean, asparagus) side.”

That green-ness was considered undesirable and producers worked to rid their wines of it.

“Oak in Sauvignon Blanc”, Belair continued, “was once used to mask the herbal or veggie characters.”

With more advanced trellising systems, Napa Valley was led away from these flavours and more towards citrus and tropical fruit.

Today, oak is still used in a majority of Napa Valley Sauvignon Blancs, yet it is used in a completely different way.

From 2008 through 2011, as each of these Napa Valley Sauvignon Blanc vintages was released, the wines were reviewed by the St. Helena Star and Napa Vintner Tasting Panel, a group of industry winemakers and other wine professionals, who meet each month to taste the region’s wines.

The 2008 vintage, when it was tasted in 2009, sparked a debate – one of the few to get a bit heated – about whether or not Sauvignon Blanc should be oaked at all.

Many of the wines from this vintage showed heavier oak-influenced flavours and a good number of panelists argued that Sauvignon Blanc is best when it displays its fresh fruit character, without obvious oak.

Others enjoyed Sauvignon Blanc rounded out and spiced by oak fermentation or ageing.

The top 2008 wines of the tasting included oaked and un-oaked wines.

One-third of the Twomey Cellars Sauvignon Blanc was fermented in new oak barrels with the remainder in stainless steel.

A majority (two-thirds) of the Clos Pegase Mitsuko Vineyard was fermented in 130 gallon puncheons for barrel complexity, and the wine was aged for several months in French oak, a small portion of that new.

The Girard 2008, however, was all stainless steel.

In 2009, more of the wines shed the heavy oak flavours, but the general style of Napa Valley Sauvignon Blanc looked to be in a state of flux. It was not clear which way producers were going to go.

The top wines of 2009 showed favor for a mix of oak and stainless steel Sauvignon Blancs, but heavier-oaked wines did not get top ratings.

The Clark Claudon was mostly stainless steel with under 10% fermented in barrels and only a tiny portion in new barrels; the 2009 Boeschen was a stainless steel driven wine; and the Jericho Canyon was produced in a combination of steel and oak and had lingering flavours of oak on the palate.

More balance came with the 2010 vintage, and it appeared, looking at the full line-up of Sauvignon Blancs from the vintage, that many winemakers producing oak-influenced Sauvignon Blancs were doing so in a much more even-handed manner.

There were many examples of wines with balanced oak flavors. Some of the favourite wines of this vintage were the Provenance – all but 10% fermented in stainless steel with the 10% in new oak; the Clif Lede – a combination of oak and neutral vessels but just 9% new oak influence; and The Grade Cellars’ Sea Fog where 10% of the wine is aged in old oak barrels.

These changes have now evolved into the very balanced 2011 vintage. Oak influenced Sauvignon Blanc is still the preference of winemakers, but the resulting oak flavours are in balance with the wines’ other elements in almost every wine tasted.

Most of the wineries used oak to round out or lightly spice the wines; gone were the heavy oak flavours sticking out in awkward angles.

It appears that Napa Valley Sauvignon Blanc is finally coming into its own, with a defining style and graceful winemaking. Oak is used to enhance the wines, and not mask or take over other flavours.

Marbue Marke produces several styles of Sauvignon Blanc for three different producers – Marston Family, Faustini and Caldwell. “Barrel use”, he notes, “helps the mouth feel, but it lessens the brightness of fruit, so it’s a balance.”

Oak balance is what has especially come to Napa Valley Sauvignon Blancs.

Here the drinks business takes a closer look at the top 2011 Sauvignon Blanc wines chosen by the Napa panel:

5 Responses to “Napa Sauvignon takes a new stylistic direction”

  1. He degustado el Sauvignon Blanc del valle del Napa 2010, tanto en Oak como en
    acero inoxidable. Sinceramente en este tipo de uva me gusta mas el de acero
    inoxidable. Claro esta, ya que su bouquet es mas afrutado y fresco.

  2. Catherine Seda says:

    Thank you for your comment. I too prefer the pure fruit of stainless steel, but I also very much enjoy those fermented in older oak and stirred on the lees – they retain fresh fruit character but take on a round-ness on the palate that is very intriguing. Cheers, Catherine

  3. Doug Wilder says:

    A couple corrections: Kristin Belair is a ‘she’, and the proper spelling is Clark Claudon. Additionally, I have a couple observations: First, what is the source for your statement of the acreage planted? Not disputing it, just would like to see the citation. Secondly, It would be helpful to have an introductory list of the wines you are discussing, or at least have each reference to the actual wine appear with a highlighted title creating a structure for the reader to follow.

  4. Catherine Seda says:

    Hi Doug, Thanks for your comments. I know Kristin Belair well; that was an unfortunate editing mistake. I am happy to answer any questions –The acreage numbers come from the USDA’s National Ag Statistic Service, in their Grape Acreage Detailed Reports. http://www.nass.usda.gov and then statistics by State. These numbers were released on April 17, 2012. I listed the top wines of each tasting more as a secondary theme in the article since the assessment of the evolving style comes more from the panel discussions over the years and the overall tastings, not just from a review of the top wines. If you would like the full list of wines, I am happy to email them to you this week; I have your email address. Best, Catherine

  5. Hi Catherine,
    Happy to see our Crosby Roamann 2011 St. Helena Sauvignon Blanc mentioned here in the article. Was the panel tasting part of the St. Helena Star review? I’d be happy to provide a bottle shot instead of the logo as well. And happy to provide any more information how we craft our SB, or why we chose to make Sauvignon Blanc from St. Helena.
    Kindly,
    Juliana McBride, proprietor

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