Top 10 Champagne trends for 201213th January, 2012 by Rupert Millar
5. Pinot Meunier will receive greater attention
It is the variety that dominates Champagne’s growing area but not its cuvées. Pinot Noir and Chardonnay have been granted their chance to shine by themselves but Pinot Meunier is yet to be given the Cinderella treatment.
However, the increase in grower Champagnes and single vineyard wines suggests a degree of experimentation and demonstrates a sense of ownership taking place in the region which could work in Pinot Meunier’s favour.
As Field asserts, the broad consensus is still that “it’s soft and only suitable for non-vintage”.
But could the coming year, or years, be a chance for Pinot Meunier to be given some proper attention? Is it full of untapped potential? “Unless research proves otherwise,” thinks Field, “then no.” On the other hand, as he points out: “Krug, famously, are big fans of Pinot Meunier and though it is unproven so far, it can have attractive fruit and brioche characteristics. Given the number of single cru for Pinot Noir and Chardonnay coming through at the moment, it’s only a matter of time before someone tries it with Pinot Meunier.”
Sure enough, a recent release from Champagne importer French Bubbles was advertising a new Champagne from the grower Lacroix, Cuvée Anthony – a 100% Pinot Meunier wine from the Marne and Aisne valleys.