Beer backlash bites Brewdog

The backlash against Brewdog is gathering pace following the maverick Scottish brewer’s release of a record 41% abv beer to reclaim the world’s strongest beer crown from German rival Schorschbrau.

Towards the end of last year, Brewdog waddled into the record books with Tactical Nuclear Penguin, an Eisbock-style beer with a strength of 32%, yet within weeks, the Schorschbrau brewery, the previous record holder, reclaimed the title with the launch of Schorschbock at 40%.

Yet the heavyweight beer belt is now back round Scottish waists following the unveiling of the controversially named “Sink The Bismarck”. At 41%, the new beer, a heavily hopped hybrid of an IPA and a barrel-aged beer, has been criticised for its contentious name and strength.

Alcohol Focus Scotland chief executive Jack Law said: "Over the past few months BrewDog have continued to produce stronger and stronger beers. By commenting on this irresponsible brewing practice we only serve to add to their marketing and therefore we have no further comment to make."

While many beer bloggers and brewers were initially supportive of Brewdog’s maverick marketing approach and anti-establishment ethos, a blogging backlash has begun following its latest release.

One beer blogger said: “I am young enough to have not been affected by the war. I am old enough to have learnt from many people who did suffer as a result of the war just how terrible it was.

“The sinking of a German boat, with 2,200 people on board, of which nearly 2000 died, is a tragedy that may well have been a justifiable event in the circumstances, but it is no joke.”

Yet BrewDog’s managing director James Watt defended the new beer and the brewery’s approach. “By pushing the boundaries in brewing we can highlight all that is exciting about craft beer and make more people aware that an alternative to mass market beers exist,” he said.

"As a company, responsible consumption and better education about beer is ingrained in all we do. Beer has a terrible reputation in Britain; it’s ignorant to assume that a beer can’t be enjoyed responsibly like a nice dram or a glass of fine wine. A beer like ‘Sink the Bismarck!’ should be enjoyed in spirit sized measures”.

Ben McFarland, 09.03.2010